LIMI feu: The Poetics of Rebellion

Known for her rare interviews, Limi Yamamoto spoke to me at the opening of her Yohji Yamamoto LONDON Savile Row 2 pop-up; her words linger much like her designs: intentional, structured and deeply connected to art, particularly music; revealing fragments of her philosophy for her brand: LIMI feu — a quiet rebellion meticulously woven into fabric.

As Doesn’t Exist thrives at the intersection of fashion and film, our conversation naturally began with cinema. For Limi, cinema acts not as a direct reference, but as a subtle, atmospheric force. ‘Watching a film is my way of disconnecting from reality,’ she says softly. ‘It doesn’t literally inspire me, but it leaves something behind; something intangible but present.’ She references ‘Taxi Driver’ [1976] and ‘La Vie en Rose’ [2007], stopping at the latter. ‘Marion Cotillard’s performance, the rawness, the atmosphere — it lingers,’ she reflects. However, Limi is quick to clarify that film does not explicitly inform her designs. Instead, it weaves itself into her creative consciousness like a faint perfume, adding texture rather than direct narrative to her designs.

While film floats on the periphery of her process, music — more specifically, punk — forms the visceral core of LIMI feu. ‘Punk is at the core of the brand,’ she asserts, her tone firm and reflective. ‘It shapes the energy, the attitude, the rhythm of each collection.’ Her interpretation of punk defies clichés of nonconformity. It’s not loud or abrasive but exists as a latent tension beneath her silhouettes; a refusal to conform that speaks louder than spectacle, seen as freedom, about rejecting expectations and embracing individuality.

As I browsed the pop-up, I was struck by several pieces from the A/W 24/25 collection, where Scottish tartans disrupted an almost entirely black palette, introducing moments of structure that eloquently counterbalanced the collection’s fluidity. Limi explains: ‘I take something rigid, like tartan, and soften it through draping,’ something that speaks volumes about how elements of British culture are absorbed and interpreted in her practice.

Limi’s work resists the ephemeral nature of trends, embracing instead an unspoken defiance and an enduring sense of individuality. Limi follows her intuition. Her collections evolve with her sensibilities, each distinct but connected by an invisible thread. ‘Every season is different, but there’s always something consistent; a rhythm that comes from within,’ she explains. Her silhouettes — structured yet voluminous, audacious yet refined — transcend fashion’s fleeting cycles, embodying a poetic energy that feels timeless.

Her journey as a designer reflects this philosophy. After graduating from Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo in 1996, Limi joined Yohji Yamamoto Inc. as a patternmaker for Y’s — where she remained for two years — before launching her own label, Y’s bis LIMI, in 1999. The name was updated to LIMI feu in 2002. Since then, the brand has established itself as one that prioritises volume and comfort, intentionally leaving room for the wearer’s individuality. ‘It’s about creating a dialogue,’ she says, ‘not dictating one.’

Now with the Yohji Yamamoto LONDON Savile Row 2 pop-up boutique, Limi is bringing her universe to London. Open until 10th January 2025, it offers a rare glimpse into her work, showcasing pieces from the A/W 24/25 collection. Sharing the space is Ground Y, the genderless line from Yohji Yamamoto Inc., whose youthful energy contrasts but complements the quiet power of LIMI feu. Together, they present the largest selection of both brands in Europe, creating a dynamic interplay of form, fluidity, and audacity.

This pop-up is more than an event; it is an experience — a layered conversation between past and present, tradition and innovation. For Limi, it’s an opportunity to connect with London in a way that feels personal, almost poetic.

Reflecting on her work, it becomes clear that, for Limi, fashion is about balance. It’s not about adhering to the rules but about discovering your rhythm within them — a rhythm that also defines LIMI feu. A rhythm that could just as easily be seen as a restrained rebellion, whispering louder than any scream. LIMI feu is a space where structure meets fluidity, where timelessness prevails, and where individuality takes centre stage, underscored by an almost silent punk undertone.